the day after the 17th day of april

I am a big advocate for fruit for breakfast.  however, this movement does not work without coffee.  in which case, you spend the day starving.  

but fruit for breakfast after a surf is awesome.  and - i love my webber. !  

I am enchanted by the idea of being in the ocean,  adhering to your it's movements, reacting to its moods, and appreciating mother nature & her gifts.

capturing surfers prior to surfing is of considerable interest to me.  it represents complete distraction & a profound detachment from everything - good or bad; the world effectively stops (which is why christmas is so special). 

in my opinion, we all need as many of these days as possible. 

we named another break this weekend.  It's called CHODES = it's just between assholes and balls, both of which are titled appropriately.  Just lookers left of balls is Shafts (seconds), and lookers left of Shaft's is CHEFS.  Equal in etherical-ness? to Bells during the 50 year storm.

6 surfs in 6 days.  I love the easter swells on the West coast.